![]() Others please correct or add to this as necessary There's all kinds of wear and tear and tolerances in the moving parts involved with timing, that only a running engine will "take up all slack" and give you a Static timing gets you close, but not quite there. You need an inductive strobe light to be able to set the timing while the engine is running. Static timing however, is not accurate enough to time the engine. And who knows if your pulley is the one that came with the engine, it could be wrong Note that there are numerous different pulleys with different timing marks, and different engines requiring different timing settings. The goal is to set it so that when you turn the engine over (by hand), the tester light goes out just as the pulley timing mark reaches the engine case seam position (12 o'clock). You can adjust it by rotating the distributor body in either direction. At that precise spot your crank pulley marks should show you what the timing is, roughly. Rotate engine clockwise at least one full turn (to eliminate free play), plus far enough that you get it to turn past the TDC mark on the pulley, and you should see the light GO OUT when the spark is generated. Light goes out when points open and it loses the ground connection, and that's when the spark is generated) ![]() ![]() (Positive terminal feeds tester light with constant +12V, and coil negative terminal grounds the light while the coil is charging. Press the tester tip against coil positive terminal. Or make your own, with a piece of wire and a 12V low watt lightbulb.Ĭonnect the alligator clip/bare wire end to the coil negative terminal Buy a cheap 12V test 'pen' light, the kind that looks like a small screwdriver, with a wire sticking out of it's a$$, and an alligator clip.
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